.:::::. .::|||||:. :: . . ; :: ^ ; ::\ = /; ::::`-'|;' _::::. `-._ /\\`::: //\ / ("":::.""") \ ( /Yi::'|iiP\ ) \ \/::'A (@@) / /)/:: /I\(@@)(\ / J : J I F F\' \ J F I I I | IVJ F F J F F I J J KF J J F J J I F F\J F F J I | I I IK F J J F F F I J J RJ F F J J J I F F OF J J F I I I I I G F F.J.._F_F_ I _F_J_..G.J """"" Krogg ,-, ,**@**. /&&&-b\ / &&&/& \ / _!!_ \ / /]{ }[\ \ \| (~~~~) |/ /^\) (/^\ ( \\(@*)// ) ," (*@@*) ". / ,~(*@)~` \ ' ;: ' / : ; \ ' ;: ' ' : ' ' @ @ ': ,@. ,@. ;' ' '-=-' '-__-' '-=-' ' ' ' / \ ~=._ _,=~ `=-.__ __,-=' gpyy `-=.____,=-' ___ /\/_\_ \/ )))) ",".// \%_,O _||___ /)___/_\ '(_/\_)\/\ />,\\/ / \/\ \o\/==/\ \/o__ (/| /o\\ \,\\- // \ | \ /o| | \ \ / / / o \ \ / / \ | \ / | o / \ o \ \ / | \ \ / / / o / \ / | o \ ) | /__/\___/_____/\___o/ b'ger =' =' From: Mark Zajac Subject: bridal fashion Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 16:22:29 -0500 Message-ID: <35A68614.A4ED3B8B@junk.nd.edu> Hi I've a friend in England who recently got married. I made her a little primmer on bridal fashion so that we'd have a common vocabulary with which she could describe her dress for me. I'm posting it here just in case anyone else is faced with describing a wedding dress at long distance through the internet. I've tried to give accurate information and realistic illus- trations but I'm no expert so, don't take the whole thing too seriously. Keep a song in your heart [:-)] Mark With a fitted bodice giving way to a very full skirt, the "ballgown" is one of the most striking silhouettes. I've shown it here (Fig.1) with a "sweetheart" neckline (curved to a point at the center, like the tip of a valentine), a puff sleeve and a basque waistline (with a downward cusp in the front). I might choose a "duchess satin" (smooth and weighty with a matte finish) for the bodice, with an organza (sheer and crisp with an airy look) for the skirt. Belle's gold lamé dress from the ballroom scene of "Beauty and the Beast" is a good example of this style. ________________________________________________________ __ __ / \ / \ [| |] `~( `' )~' (`--') } { : :: : /\ /\ . .. . .' `' `. . . / .' `. \ : . . : .' / \ `. . . / .' . `. \ . : : . .' / | \ `. . : : . / .' . `. \ . . / / | \ \ : : : : `~~~~..___ | __..~~~~' | . . | ```"''' `~.__.~' Figure.1 Ballgown Figure.2 Empire ________________________________________________________ A narrow, gathered skirt, often sheer, falling dramatically from a very high waistline, is the hallmark of gowns in the classic "Empire" style. Cascading, as it does, from just below the bosom, this silhouette bypasses the bride's waist and hips altogether and is thus very forgiving. Introduced by Napoleon's Josephine, this style was in decline but now enjoys a resurgence, thanks in part to recent screen adaptations of Jane Austen novels wherein gowns of this sort were worn to advantage by the likes of Kate Winslet and Gwyneth Paltrow. The illustration (Fig.2) depicts a sleeveless, on shoulder bodice, in keeping with tradition. Though rather sheer, a silk chiffon might be a good fabric choice - light and airy for summer. Danger, curves ahead. Cut close from bosom to hip, the "trumpet" (rhymes with strumpet) leaves little to the imagination. This is a very unforgiving silhouette. Compensating for a late start, the skirt flares with a vengeance at mid thigh. The "mermaid" silhouette is a variation on this theme, flaring just above the knee instead. Continuing my amalgam of all things tacky, I've chosen a halter top (with the dress suspended from a fabric band, fastened behind the neck). Ideally suited for exhibitionists, this leaves the congregation with a good view of the bride's clavicles throughout the ceremony. Small consolation, there is an economy of material at the back with very little used. This sort of thing (Fig.3) might do for a "disco queen" or a gangster's moll but really has very little to recommend it (unless you've already chosen a dress in this style, in which case I'm only joking). ________________________________________________________ _ _ // \\ ___ ___ (`~') '~~(`v')~~` | | | | | | / \ / \ .'`~~~'`. .'`~~~'`. / /"\ \ / : \ . / | \ . . .' | `. . / . . . \ / : \ . / | \ . . .' | `. . / . | . \ / \ : / . \ : `~~..._:_...~~' `~.:. | .:.~' `````"''''' Figure.3 Trumpet Figure.4 Gore ________________________________________________________ The distinctive fullness of a "gore skirt" comes from wide panels, without pleats or gathers, falling from a fitted waste to a full hemline. I've designed this one (Fig.4) to be worn off the shoulder with arm bands extending from the bodice in place of sleeves. I've chosen a raised waistline (partly because I'm limited by the characters on the keyboard). I prefer a douppion (stiff with an irregular surface texture) for the panels since the weighty material holds it's shape well and is fairly resistant to wrinkles. As it's name suggests, the "ballet russe" silhouette borrows heavily from a style first seen as a dance costume at the turn of the century. A number of Degas paintings feature ballerinas in this mode of dress. I've shown it here (Fig.5) at floor length (for scale) though a hemline falling short of the ankles is more traditional (so as not to obscure the dancer's footwork). I've chosen spaghetti straps at the shoulder as they seem to compliment the delicately forlorn simplicity of the overall look. Perhaps a "poe de soi" (smooth and lustrous with a papery texture) might do for the bodice with a fountain of tulle (diaphanous and wispy) for the skirt. ________________________________________________________ _ _ ! ! \| |/ (`~') (`-') | | |: :| | | /: :\ .'`~~~'`. .'. .`. / /|\ \ / . . \ . . . . . .' `. . . . . . / : : \ . . . . . .' `. . . . . . / : : \ . . . . . .' . . `. . . . . . / . . \ `~~.__|__.~~' `~~..| |..~~' `~~~~~~~' Figure.5 Ballet Russe Figure.6 Princess ________________________________________________________ The salient feature of the "princess" or "A-line" silhouette is a pair of seams flowing, in parallel, down from the shoulders of a fitted bodice to the hem of a flared skirt. With no clearly defined waistline and the vertical seams to give an illusion of svelteness, this style treats most figures with great kindness and commensurately popular. I've shown it here (Fig.6) with a cap sleeve. This is what most people have as a mental image of what a wedding dress looks like. = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =